Skin that burns, reddens and stings in the hour after a shave: that is razor burn. It is not something your skin is doomed to. Most of the time it comes from the way you shave, and a few changes are enough to make it feel different.
In short
Razor burn mostly comes from a blade dragging over poorly prepared skin: shaving dry, against the grain, with the skin stretched or with a blunt blade. Shave a beard that is wet with lukewarm water, with a gel or foam, in the direction of growth and with a sharp blade. Straight afterwards, a moisturiser with glycerin helps bring back comfort.
Where the burning feeling comes from
With every stroke, the blade cuts the hair but also scrapes the surface of the skin. The drier and coarser the hair, the harder you have to press and the more strokes you need, and the more the skin takes. The American Academy of Dermatology and the NHS clearly identify the habits that make irritation worse: shaving dry, against the grain, with lots of strokes, or with a blade that has lost its edge.
Before: prepare the beard
- Wet the beard with lukewarm water. The AAD advises wetting skin and hair to soften them, and notes that the best time is right after a shower. Never shave dry.
- Apply a shaving gel or foam. If your skin is dry or reactive, the AAD recommends a product labelled for sensitive skin.
During: the right moves
- With the grain, not against it. This is the advice the AAD and the NHS share for limiting razor burn.
- Without stretching the skin. Pulling the skin taut to get closer cuts the hair too short, and the area pays for it afterwards.
- Few strokes, rinsing the blade each time. The NHS advises keeping strokes to a minimum; do not chase the perfect shave on day one.
- A sharp blade. A blunt blade pulls instead of cutting. The AAD advises replacing your blade or disposable razor after 5 to 7 shaves, and storing it somewhere dry between uses.
After: rinse and moisturise
The NHS suggests placing a cool, wet cloth on the skin after shaving to ease the feeling of irritation. Then a moisturiser. In her review of male skin, Zoe Draelos recommends an after-shave moisturiser based on glycerin and emollients. A study published in 2017 in Archives of Dermatological Research points the same way: on regularly shaved skin (the underarms), a formula with 4% glycerol came with less visible irritation and better hydration.
There is no need for a special “men’s” product: a simple moisturiser with glycerin does the job. The basics of a short routine are covered in the minimalist routine with four products.
When to get advice
Passing irritation after shaving is common. However, if some spots become very painful, hot or swollen, if the skin often bleeds, or if the irritation does not settle despite these habits, see a doctor or a dermatologist.
The last word
Wet beard, with the grain, sharp blade, skin not stretched, then a moisturiser. These are simple habits, and they are what makes the difference to how comfortable your skin feels. For a routine that takes your skin and your shaving into account, start with the free skin quiz: your photo, a few questions, and you see your skin type.
Frequently asked questions
Why avoid shaving against the grain?
Because the hair is cut shorter and the blade catches the skin more. The AAD and the NHS both advise shaving in the direction the hair grows to limit irritation.
When should I change my razor blade?
The AAD advises replacing the blade or disposable razor after 5 to 7 shaves. A blade that pulls or snags is already too blunt.
What should I apply after shaving?
A simple moisturiser, ideally with glycerin. That is what Zoe Draelos recommends in her review of male skin, and a 2017 study linked glycerol to less visible irritation after shaving.
Does an electric shaver irritate less?
It can be worth a try: the NHS lists it among the options to consider for limiting ingrown hairs. The same principles still apply: prepared skin, few passes, a clean shaver.