One product is getting a lot of talk again: the toner of the skincare videos. Mists, milks, essences, “acid” toners: the category is fashionable once more, and with it comes a fair question. Do you really need to add one more step to your routine?
The short answer: sometimes yes, often no. It all depends on which toner we are talking about.
In short
A toner is a liquid product applied after cleansing and before serum; it is not a compulsory step. There are three families: hydrating (useful for skin that feels tight), exfoliating with acids (which counts as a full exfoliant) and alcohol-based astringent (best avoided, it dries the skin). If your routine of cleanse, moisturise, protect suits you, you can skip it and lose nothing.
Where toner comes from (and why it has changed)
Originally, toner was used to remove traces of limescale and soap after cleansing. The soaps of the past left skin feeling tight, and hard water added a film on the surface: the toner “finished” the cleanse.
Modern cleansers, gentle and rinse-off, have made that role almost redundant. So brands have reinvented the category: today, “toner” covers products that often have nothing in common.
The three families not to confuse
| Family | What it does | Who it is for |
|---|---|---|
| Hydrating toner (essence, “milky toner”) | Adds a first layer of water and hydrating actives | Skin that feels tight, dehydrated skin, dry climates |
| Exfoliating toner (with AHA/BHA) | Exfoliates the surface, like an acid serum | Uneven skin texture, blackheads, with the same precautions as an exfoliant |
| Astringent toner (often alcohol-based) | Gives a feeling of freshness and “clean” skin | Nobody, in practice: alcohol in quantity dries and weakens the skin |
This is the most important line in this article: an exfoliating toner is not a harmless step. It counts as a full exfoliant, and you can’t add it “on top of” an acid serum or a retinol on the same evening without clearly raising the risk of irritation. The choice between AHA and BHA is detailed in our comparison.
When it is really worth it
- Your skin feels tight after cleansing and your cream isn’t enough: a hydrating toner applied to still-damp skin can make a difference, especially when the heating comes back on.
- You want to exfoliate without adding a serum: a toner with acids, two or three evenings a week, can replace the exfoliating step, not add to it.
- You like the ritual: that is a valid reason, as long as the product is gentle and it is instead of something else, not on top of everything else.
When you can skip it without losing anything
If your current routine, cleanse, moisturise, protect, plus one targeted active, suits you, a toner brings nothing essential. It is not a compulsory step, whatever the ten-step routine in the video says.
And if you are building your routine on a tight budget, it is one of the first lines you can cross out without consequence: better to put that money into a good cream or an SPF you like wearing.
How to use it if you adopt it
- After cleansing, before serum: that is where it goes in the application order.
- With your hands rather than cotton wool for a hydrating toner: you pat, you don’t rub, and you waste less.
- One new thing at a time: if you add it at the same time as another product, there is no way of knowing which one suits you.
The last word
If a toner stings, reddens or leaves skin drier than before, it is not that it is “working”: it is that it doesn’t suit you. You simply stop. And if the discomfort persists even without it, perhaps your skin barrier needs a break, which is the real subject of autumn, far more than one more step.
Frequently asked questions
Is toner essential?
No. Modern cleansers, gentle and rinse-off, have made its original role almost redundant. A routine of cleanse, moisturise, protect works very well without it.
Can you use an exfoliating toner with an acid serum or retinol?
Not on the same evening. A toner with AHAs or BHAs is a full exfoliant: it replaces the exfoliating step, it does not add to it.
Are alcohol-based toners a good idea?
No. Alcohol in quantity dries the skin. For blemish-prone skin, the American Academy of Dermatology also advises avoiding astringents, toners and irritating exfoliants, and preferring gentle, alcohol-free products.
What should I do if a toner stings?
Stop it. Dermato-info recommends rinsing the product off with water and a mild soap and not reapplying it; testing a new product first on a small, hidden area avoids the nasty surprise.