It is everywhere: in serums, creams, masks and mists. Hyaluronic acid has become the ingredient people buy almost by reflex as soon as their skin feels a little tight. The good news: it is a serious active ingredient and very well tolerated. The less good news: it does not do everything some labels promise.
In short
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that is very good at holding on to water: applied to the skin, it hydrates the surface and makes it look softer and plumper. It is one of the ingredients the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) suggests looking for in a cream for dry skin. Apply it to skin that is still slightly damp, and always put a cream on top: on its own, it does not stop the water from escaping again. It softens the look of fine dehydration lines; it does not erase established wrinkles.
What is hyaluronic acid?
A substance the skin makes itself, which skincare borrows for its ability to bind water. Cleveland Clinic describes it as very good at retaining water, and notes that it is found in moisturisers, lotions, gels and serums. On a label, it often appears as sodium hyaluronate, its most common form in skincare.
It is what is called a humectant: it attracts water and keeps it in the upper layers of the skin, like glycerin, which appears in the same AAD list.
What can you really expect from it?
Better-hydrated, more comfortable skin, with dryness lines that show less. That is the best-established effect. The table sorts it out.
| What it does | What it does not do |
|---|---|
| Hydrates the surface of the skin | Replace a cream that protects the skin barrier |
| Makes skin softer and more comfortable | Erase deep wrinkles |
| Softens the look of fine dehydration lines | Give the effect of an injection at a clinic |
| Suits almost every skin type | Fix naturally dry skin on its own |
On wrinkles, the data exist but remain modest. A study published in 2011 in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology followed 76 women aged 30 to 60 who applied, twice a day for 60 days, a cream with 0.1% hyaluronic acid around one eye and a cream without the active ingredient around the other. Every version improved skin hydration and elasticity. Wrinkle depth only went down measurably with the smallest molecules, which the authors think penetrate better. It is a single study, small and short: enough to talk about a boost to appearance, not a spectacular “anti-ageing” effect.
As for the hyaluronic acid used in injections, that is a different use, carried out by a doctor: a serum comes nowhere near it.
How should you apply it so it actually helps?
On clean skin that is still a little damp, then a cream on top. The AAD advises applying your moisturiser while the skin is still damp, right after a shower or bath: that is when there is water to hold on to.
The routine, morning or evening:
- cleanse your face, then pat it without drying it completely;
- apply a few drops of hyaluronic acid serum, pressing with your fingertips rather than rubbing;
- apply your moisturiser straight after: it forms the film that keeps water in the skin;
- in the morning, finish with sunscreen, as always.
If you are unsure about the order of products, the general rule (thinnest to richest) is explained in the order to apply skincare products.
Why can a serum on its own leave skin dry?
Because a humectant attracts water but does not stop it from leaving. In very dry air, in winter or in a heated home, the water held at the surface evaporates if nothing covers it. That is why, for dry skin, the AAD recommends creams or ointments rather than light textures, and lists, alongside hyaluronic acid, ingredients that form a film: dimethicone, shea butter, petrolatum, mineral oil.
In practice, a serum on its own is sometimes enough for oily skin in summer. As soon as the skin feels tight, it needs a cream on top. If you are not sure whether your skin lacks water or oil, start with dry or dehydrated skin: how to tell the difference, then read how to choose a winter face cream.
What can you combine it with?
With almost anything: it is one of the easiest active ingredients to fit into a routine. You will often find it already combined with other ingredients in the same cream. It pairs well with an active that can be drying, such as retinol, or a versatile ingredient such as niacinamide.
Cleveland Clinic says reactions to hyaluronic acid are rare, but that a product combining it with other ingredients can cause them. If your skin stings or turns red after a new serum, look at the fragrance and the other active ingredients in the formula too. Stop the product and, if the discomfort continues, ask a pharmacist or a dermatologist.
To find out whether your routine really needs an extra serum, the free skin quiz starts from your skin, your pace of life and your budget, and tells you what is useful and what is not.
Frequently asked questions
Is hyaluronic acid suitable for oily skin?
Yes. It hydrates without adding oil, and oily skin can also lack water. A gel texture or a light serum, followed by a fluid cream, is often enough.
Do I need a serum, or is a cream that contains it enough?
A cream that contains hyaluronic acid and film-forming ingredients already does both jobs. A serum is a bonus when the skin stays dehydrated despite the cream, not a must. A minimalist routine can do perfectly well without one.
Can I use it morning and evening?
Yes. In the morning, it goes under your moisturiser and sunscreen; in the evening, under your night cream.
Why does my serum leave my skin sticky?
Often because there is too much of it, or because it is not covered with a cream. Two or three drops are enough for the whole face, applied to slightly damp skin.