Retinol has a double reputation: one of the most studied ingredients on the cosmetics shelf for the appearance of wrinkles, and the one that “burns the skin” of beginners. The second part is only true when you start badly. Introduced well, it is very well tolerated; it just takes a little method and six weeks of patience.
In brief
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that speeds up the renewal of the skin’s surface; it tends to smooth the texture and soften the appearance of fine lines. Start with the lowest-strength formula, two evenings a week, in the evening only, with an SPF every morning. It should be avoided during pregnancy and is never applied on the same evening as an exfoliant.
What exactly is it?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that speeds up the renewal of the skin’s surface. Used regularly, it tends to smooth the skin’s texture, soften the appearance of fine lines and even out the complexion. It is a long-haul ingredient: its effects are judged over months, not weeks.
Good to know on the label front: since European Regulation 2024/996, the retinol concentration in face products sold in Europe is capped at 0.3%. In other words, the race for percentages is over, and that is good news, because tolerance is decided right there.
Where to start (and at what pace)
The method that avoids most mishaps comes down to three rules:
- A low concentration to begin with. The American Academy of Dermatology advises choosing the lowest-strength formula you can find: a low-concentration product, or an “encapsulated” formula, is more than enough to start. You only go up if your skin tolerates it perfectly after several weeks, and going up isn’t even compulsory.
- Two evenings a week, no more. For the first two weeks, apply it on two evenings spaced apart. If all is well, move to every other evening. Daily use is neither a goal nor an obligation.
- An amount the size of a small pea for the whole face, on dry skin, not damp, which increases penetration and tingling.
Retinol is applied in the evening only: the molecule breaks down in light. And the next morning, SPF is not up for debate at all: skin that is adjusting to retinol is more sensitive to the sun.
Normal signs, and the ones that aren’t
| What is expected | What should make you stop |
|---|---|
| Slight flaking in the first weeks | Bright redness that lasts several days |
| Brief tingling on application | A burning sensation |
| Skin a little drier than usual | Swelling, intense itching |
The left-hand column is the adjustment: space out the applications and hydrate more, and it passes. The right-hand column is not a “purge” to endure: you stop, and if it persists, you show your skin to a dermatologist.
The mistakes that spoil everything
- Stacking it with exfoliants. Retinol and AHA/BHA on the same evening is a recipe for irritation. Alternate them: exfoliant one evening, retinol another, never both.
- Starting it at the same time as another new product. One new thing at a time, otherwise it is impossible to know what is doing what.
- Giving up in week 3. That is precisely when the adjustment is ending. The visible effects come after.
Who should go without
Pregnancy and breastfeeding: retinol and other vitamin A derivatives should be avoided, as a precaution. That is the rule, not an opinion. Likewise, if you are following a course of dermatological care (notably with retinoids obtained from a doctor), a cosmetic retinol is not added on top without the say-so of the person looking after you.
The final word
Retinol rewards slowness. Low concentration, two evenings a week, one pea, SPF in the morning: it is less spectacular than a promise of transformation in ten days, and that is exactly why it works.
Frequently asked questions
Which retinol concentration should I choose to start?
The lowest you can find. In Europe, the concentration in face products is capped at 0.3% anyway since Regulation 2024/996; going up in strength is never an obligation.
Do you apply retinol in the morning or in the evening?
In the evening only. The American Academy of Dermatology points out that retinoids make skin more sensitive to the sun: sun protection every morning.
Can you use retinol while pregnant?
No. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, retinoids should not be used during pregnancy; they are also avoided during breastfeeding, as a precaution.
Can you combine retinol and an exfoliant?
Not on the same evening. Exfoliating when you already use retinol can dry the skin out further: alternate evenings, with rest nights in between.